Norway’s second-largest city is surprisingly compact but has plenty of culture and nature to explore
Newcastle and Bergen are separated by the North Sea but connected by history. The cities have celebrated a link dating back to the Second World War, and from 1949 – 2022, Bergen had sent a Christmas tree to Newcastle as a gesture of friendship and gratitude.
For the last three years the cities have swapped baubles at the Civic Centre’s annual Christmas lights switch on, with the tree tradition ending due to environmental concerns. For many Bergens, Newcastle was their first trip abroad thanks to a ferry link between the two cities – although that ended in 2008.
But for many Geordies, it’s likely that Bergen remains a bit of a mystery. ChronicleLive visited the city in December, ahead of Jet2 launching direct flights between the two for a trial period next April.
A compact city with a population similar to that of Newcastle, it’s hard to believe that it’s Norway’s second biggest. In the winter, the sun rises after 9am, with those up and about early having the city almost to themselves.
For people who would prefer to avoid crowds, it’s wonderful. But don’t let that quietness fool you.
There’s a hell of a lot to do in the city itself, while it’s easy to get out and explore the abundance of nature on its doorstep. Just make sure that you save up ahead of your visit; despite a weak Norwegian krone, Brits might find the price of a pint a little eye-watering!
What to do
The brewery
If you’ve ever seen a postcard or a photo of Bergen, chances are you’ve seen Bryggen, the old wooden trading buildings and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The reds, oranges and yellows, are a wooden representation of the autumn we’ve just left behind.
Once home to traders and the epicentre of the stockfish trade, they’re now a warren of shops – many of which are independent – selling souvenirs from jumpers, to trolls, to Christmas baubles. One even has a taxidermy polar bear which is difficult to fit in a suitcase, and therefore not for sale.
You’ll also find some tiny museums in here, some of which are only open on special days during the year (the WWII museum), others you need to book for and hope you have a party of four or fewer (the Poison Museum). Stop off for hot drinks at Kaf Kafe Bryggen or Tedragen, or eat at Tracteursted (more on that below).
Fjord cruise
A fjord cruise to Mostraumen is a popular half-day excursion from Bergen harbour, with the 3.5-hour round trip a chance to get a taste for the spectacular landscapes on the city’s doorstep. A particularly impressive stretch passes a village of just seven buildings with a narrow channel so shallow you can see the bottom from the boat’s deck.
Spot snow-capped peaks and get close to waterfalls by the village of Mo, and marvel at the golden-tinged cliffs from the morning sunlight. Brief spells in said sunlight aren’t enough to distract from the kind of cold we don’t really get that often in the UK though.
As well as a hat, gloves and a coat, a face covering and sunglasses are a must if doing the cruise in winter. Several companies offer trips from Bergen Harbour, I went with Rodne; which had plenty of space both inside and out – prices as of 2026 are NOK 890 (around £65).
Food and culture walk
Back on land, and a food and culture walk offers a fascinating insight into the history of Bergen with some tasty snacks along the way. Starting off at the fish market, fish cakes and cinnamon rolls with brown cheese give participants an energy boost before guide Anne leads a more in-depth exploration of Bryggen than one would generally do alone.
Over three hours, there’s room for sheep meat soup in a former bath house for the harbor workers, and drinking “liquid apple cake” at Kaffekompaniet, the city’s first ever barista café, dating back to 1996. The tour ends in Dyvekes Vinkjeller, the oldest cellar in Bergen dating back to the 1300s, with a well-earned dark red beer.
My tour was organized through Bergen Base Camp, with prices starting at NOK 1,150 (around £85).
Visit museums/aquariums
There are more than 20 museums in Bergen covering everything from maritime history; two Munch’s masterpieces at KODE Art Museum; two trolls, unsurprisingly at the Troll Museum. Bryggen, mentioned above, is considered an open-air museum which has museums within it.
There are more cultural attractions outside the city such as the Fantoft Church and composer Edvard Grieg’s house at Troldhaugen, which holds lunchtime concerts during the summer months.
Even with a packed itinerary, I squeezed in the Rasmus Meyer and Stenersen galleries within KODE, and spent Sunday afternoon at the aquarium. The aquarium is especially good for traveling families, with penguin feeding, otter, and sea lion shows daily.
Getting around
During my visit, I used a Bergen card which meant free tram and bus travel, including to and from the airport. It’s a very walkable city, but the card is handy for getting to attractions outside of the centre, such as the Ulriken Cable Car and the Fantoft Stave Church.
The card offers discounts on museums, restaurants and shops; and free entry to some at certain times of the year – such as the KODE art museums and Bergen Aquarium. The Bergen Card starts at NOK 420 for adults (around £31) for 24 hours, with the price increasing by NOK 120 (around £9) for each further 24-hour period up to 96 hours.
Where to eat
Bergen is a UNESCO city of gastronomy and three of its restaurants hold Michelin stars. Much of the food is centered around seafood, with dishes such as Persian cod difficult to find anywhere else in the world.
When it comes to drinks, make sure to try apple juice or cider made from apples from the Hardanger fjord. There’s a microclimate which makes them sweet and tart.
This list of places to eat in Bergen is by no means exhaustive, but a good introduction to the city’s culinary scene.
The Three Crowns
Trekroneren is a Bergen institution and one of the best places for a cheap meal (although not quite as cheap as its name suggests – three krone). The hot dog stand dates back to 1946 and is open until 4am so is perfect for a late night snack after a few drinks.
I had a reindeer hot dog with juniper berries and lingonberry sauce. If you don’t fancy eating Rudolph, there are beef and lamb options too, with most around NOK 85 – 95 (between £6 and £7).
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Bryggen Tracteursted
This cozy restaurant is within one of the oldest buildings in Bryggen and is one of the only places where it was allowed to have an open fire. It’s a great introduction to traditional Bergen cooking in a homely atmosphere.
It’s reasonably priced and the tapas-style dishes mean you can try a few different things. Expect the likes of spiced herring, reindeer tartare, and a variation of the dish that built Bergen – stockfish.
££
Fish Market
Bergen’s fish market has been a meeting place for merchants and fishermen since the 1200s. However, the modern version you see today – Mathallen – opened in 2012.
There are a handful of restaurants inside, including Fish Me and the Fjellskål Seafood Restaurant; and you can get everything from morning cinnamon rolls to fresh crab and lobster, to fresh sushi. I ate at Fjellskål Restaurant, which has a huge variety of seafood on offer – but it is pretty pricey!
£££
The penguin
Norwegian for penguin, Pingvinen is a casual bar in the city center where you can try a dish only found in Bergen – Persian cod. Cod pressed in sugar and salt before being served with egg butter and mushy peas. When the dish was “revived” in the nearby restaurant Bien Basar, January 28 was made Persian cod day.
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The wing restaurant/Schau
The Fløibanen Funicular takes passengers to the top of Mount Fløyen, one of the seven mountains surrounding the city, in about eight minutes. At the top there are two restaurants in the same building, The wing restaurant and Schau.
The wing restaurant is the more casual option, but Schau’s tasting menu offers up a real treat and could be a holiday highlight for foodies. It’s fine dining, but it’s approachable and fun, and there probably aren’t many times in life when the chance to try horse butter arises.
£££
Christmas in Bergen
Christmas Market
Bergen has a small Christmas market in Festplassen which this year is open from November 21 – December 22. Here, you can pick up Christmas food and traditional Norwegian gifts.
There are a few rides, and the Ferris wheel overlooks the Lille Lungegårdsvannet, a lake on which a Christmas tree stands in the centre. It’s free to enter.
Gingerbread Town
The real Bergen Christmas tradition is not the Christmas Market, but Pepperkakebyen, the world’s largest gingerbread city. Established by Steinar Kristofferson in 1991 as a marketing exercise for the Galleriet shopping centre, it now has its own dedicated location on Kong Oscars Gate.
Gingerbread town is truly incredible – between 10,000-12,000 people make the gingerbread monuments that model trains chug through. I spotted the football stadium of local team Brann packed with fans and players; London’s Tower Bridge; and bizarrely, Erling Haaland hiding at the back of a cave (Steinar Kristofferson is a Manchester United fan) in this gingerbread wonderland.
It gets around 80,000 visitors per year, and many Bergensere say that it’s not Christmas until they’ve visited. Sadly, the gingerbread isn’t edible and the city will be demolished in January, but you can buy gingerbread biscuits in the bakery on the way out.
Where to stay
I stayed at the Hotel Clarion Admiral on C. Sundt’s Gate, looking out over Bergen’s Waterfront. Some rooms give uninterrupted views of Bryggen and the harbour, best enjoyed from the shared balconies.
The breakfast has a huge selection of Norwegian delicacies on offer, from brown cheese to gravlax; while there are continental and cooked breakfast options too. Rooms start from 1495 NOK (around £110) per night for a standard double.
How to get there
Jet2 has launched a trial of direct flights between the two cities in April, with leading figures in Bergen hoping that this will develop into year-round direct flights between the two cities. You can also fly to Bergen from Newcastle via Amsterdam Schipol with KLM, with return fares starting at £117.