We’ve only just met our tour guide Michael when he gives us the all-important pep talk about a Scandinavian winter: there is no such thing as cold weather, just bad clothing.
“You’ll need three thermal layers, gloves, beanie, scarf and snow grips,” he explains. “Temperatures will reach minus 30 or 40, so zip up, make your way inside if you can’t feel your fingers or toes, and keep moving.”
My fellow Australian tour guests nod nervously as we peer outside at the snow-laden streets from the warmth of our Helsinki hotel. Many of us have never experienced a winter in northern Europe and we aren’t sure what to expect.
For the next 17 days, we’ll venture north through Finland to Europe’s northernmost point, Nordkapp, before winding our way back via Norway’s Lyngen Alps to Oslo. From chasing the Northern Lights to gliding by fjords and catching the polar express to Santa’s Christmas Village beyond the Arctic Circle, we’re about to embark on Inspiring Vacations’ Norway Winter Wonderland Small Group Tour; an action-packed journey through the world’s most picturesque winter attractions.
Where did you start?
The itinerary begins in Helsinki, Finland’s clean and quirky capital. I’m traveling with my teenage son and we arrive directly via Singapore (fleeing a heatwave in Sydney) and spend our first day exploring the streets and acclimatising to the few hours of daylight.
While our itinerary offers a comprehensive tour of Helsinki, we also use the city as a base to visit Estonia’s compact capital Tallinn. This pretty European gem is a two-hour ferry ride away – via the large, modern and well-equipped Megastar Ferry – with medieval streets to explore. To my delight the town square still had its Christmas tree and decorations intact, all cloaked with a festive dusting of snow, when we visited in January. We scaled the Old City ramparts, ate in an atmospheric banquet hall (Estonia’s national dish is potato salad; anchovies on toast optional), scoured vintage stores and stumbled across the Museum of Medieval Torture Implements, much to my son’s morbid fascination.
Where did you go?
After two nights in Helsinki we caught the Santa Claus Express (a novel sleeper train with narrow bunks and tiny Harry Potter-esque hidden shower and toilet) overnight to Kemi, to spend the day plowing through the frozen Bothnian Sea on the icebreaker Arctic. Watching the sunrise from the deck, everything from the ship’s railing to our eyelashes were frozen. Later on we suited up in insulated gear before plunging into the sea off the back of the ship; despite the -20C chill, it was one of the most thrilling things I’ve ever done.
After a day walking, floating and sledding on the ice, we drove further north to Rovaniemi, the capital of Finnish Lapland and the official home of Santa Claus. Located in the Arctic Circle, Santa’s Village is open year-round. There’s a North Pole post office, and even if your teenage son no longer believes in Santa, it’s a magical place to spend a couple of hours. (Just keep in mind that happy snaps with Mr Claus cost extra – Santa is on the clock!)
Rovaniemi is a buzzy little city and a great base for adventure activities such as snowmobiling, ice fishing, sledding and viewing the Northern Lights. We stayed for two nights before driving further north to Saariselkä, where we scaled a lone mountain complete with chairlift and slept in a dreamy glass igloo draped in snow (designed for viewing the Northern Lights from bed), after an afternoon spent sledding with huskies through a fairytale forest of snow.
As we ventured north, the temperature got colder (think -30C) and the days shorter due to the phenomenon known as the polar night. While you don’t get to directly see the sun in the polar regions at this time of year, you do experience some daylight so we made the most of the few precious hours when possible. By the time we’d reached the border bridging Finland and Norway, and braved the breathtaking but precarious E6 highway to the remote fishing town of Honningsvåg on Magerøya Island, night fell by 2pm.
We pushed forward to reach Nordkapp, or North Cape – a triumph given daily road closures are the norm. As fierce wind and ice lashed the top of dramatic cliffs overlooking the Arctic Ocean, it felt like we were teetering on the edge of the earth. Our bus driver, Vladus, proved his mettle as we navigated the perilous road through dimming light, with sheer drops on either side.
Vladus’s expert driving would often result in applause by the end of each day, as we wound through Norway’s pristine fjords and the icing sugar-dusted mountain caps of the Lyngen Alps, where sunset had a radiant ombre effect of pink and blue. We spotted reindeer and a moose in the wild – “a rarity” Michael told us – and learned the history of the Indigenous and nomadic Sámi people, by visiting the fascinating Sámi Museum Siida in Inari and the Sámi Parliament of Norway in Karasjok. There was also time to view ancient rock art in Alta.
By the time we reached Tromsø in Norway, I’d fallen in love with the country. Tromsø is the quirky star of Scandi noir, and its colorful houses, troll museum, floating sauna, fishing marina, shops and food made it one of my favorite spots on the tour. My son spent a free day snowboarding at the nearby Alpine Park, and other guests caught the cable car to the Storsteinen mountain ledge for its panoramic view.
Tromsø boasted the best Northern Lights of the trip, and our group WhatsApp chat was alive with mesmerizing pictures after nights out on the hunt. In Tromsø we also opted for an extra excursion to feed a Sámi reindeer herd, and experience a leisurely reindeer sled. Our host taught us how to “yoik” – a traditional Sámi song – and we ate a hearty dinner of reindeer stew in a lavvu (lit) around the fire. Only Sámi people are allowed to own and herd reindeer, which they have done for generations, and their philosophy is to take only what is needed from the herd.
The finale was a journey through the Lofoten Islands, and a few nights in Oslo, although we left the tour early so sadly didn’t experience the final four nights.
What was the best thing?
There were many highlights but the combination of adventure and scenery made this itinerary special. Husky sledding through a forest of frozen fir trees in Saariselkä was the most joyful experience. As my son steered (and mushed) our sled through powdery snow led by six lean pack dogs, we laughed and screamed. The brake was a rudimentary foot on a pad, Lapland’s scenery was astounding and the excited dogs barked like mad and chewed on snow (which they prefer to water). That evening we stayed in a cozy igloo nearby, hoping to stay awake to see the Northern Lights but we were both so exhausted we fell asleep instantly.
Donning insulated suits and plunging together into the icy Bothnian Bay off an ice breaker was also a once-in-a-lifetime thrill. While our eyelashes and faces froze solid, we laughed like hyenas as we floated on our backs beside chunks of ice the size of pillows in -20C temps. Once we both calmed down, it was incredibly peaceful, which surprised me.
Finally, my son would nominate the snowmobile safari – an extra excursion in Rovaniemi – as his favorite activity. While I found driving these throbbing machines down a frozen river in a convoy in the dark daunting, he absolutely loved it, and screamed at me to go faster. My only regret is not layering up more – when we stopped for a warm blueberry juice (which tasted like hot Ribena) mid safari, my fingers and toes nearly snapped off in the cold.
Did you see the Northern Lights?
On this trip, the aurora borealis was at its best in Norway. Sighting the remarkable dancing lights requires patience, and often some expertise, because you never know when or where they will appear. Weather conditions affect visibility, and the vivid colors are often not visible to the naked eye. The Northern Lights appear as wisps or gray streaks on a clear sky overhead and it’s only when you hold your phone up and take a photo that magical hues are revealed. Capturing the different shades becomes addictive and if you download the Aurora app, you can receive up-to-the-minute updates based on your location.
Who took care of the logistics?
Inspiring Vacations sent a detailed itinerary before the trip, and having the same tour guide (Michael) and bus driver (Vladus) helped streamline daily communication. Our hotels – a combination of Radisson Blu and Scandic – were rated three or four stars, and always centrally located. Walking around was safe and most residents spoke English well so it was easy to communicate. We found the itinerary to have a degree of flexibility, so there was a mix of free time and organized activities.
There were 20 people on our small group tour (the maximum is 24), which was comfortable. Guests were from Australia and a mix of mature couples, solo female travellers, and families traveling with adult or teenage children. The dynamics worked well and everyone was respectful, open-minded and adventurous.
Any extra costs?
Breakfast is supplied daily but most lunches and dinners are at your expense. The itinerary outlines this clearly though, and it means you can explore and experience free time for meals, which I preferred. Norway is the most expensive of the countries we visited so we stocked up at supermarkets where possible to save money and carried snacks with us. Finland and Norway are both cashless so you don’t need to carry the local currency. Transfers are the traveller’s responsibility, however you can opt to book transfers via Inspiring Vacations in advance.
The verdict: 9/10
This tour does exactly what it says on the tin. A detailed and action-packed itinerary, it was very well organised, safe and visually spectacular.
Pack
The weather is the most important thing to research before you plan a winter trip like this. Layers of thermal underclothes (try Uniqlo’s affordable Heattech range), merino wool socks, neck gaiters, waterproof ski pants and insulated jacket are essential. Hand warmers and shoe cleats for icy streets also came in handy. Keeping fingers, toes and face warm is important. Fortunately there are many quality souvenir shops if you need anything along the way. If you layer well, it’s much easier to manage in the cold and enjoy your marvelous outdoor experiences.
Plan
This itinerary involves handling your own luggage frequently, so you need a degree of mobility. I recommend packing as lightly as possible to make moving around comfortable. On the sleeper train to Kemi, our large suitcases barely fit under the narrow bunks and there is not a lot of room to maneuver. In hindsight I should have done with a smaller suitcase. I also recommend staying on a few extra days in Oslo or elsewhere in Europe to decompress after such an action-packed itinerary. And always keep a dry pair of extra woolen socks handy – your feet will thank you.
Book
Inspiring Vacations 16 Day Norway Winter Wonderland Small Group Tour starts at $9395 per person. December to March offer peak winter (and Christmas) conditions.
The writer was a guest of Inspiring Vacations.